Handlebar Grips & Tips for Replacing Them
& What to Know for Keeping Them Tight
Considering that the handlebar grips have this way of helping a rider become one with the dirt bike as they truly are the rider's direct connection to keep the motorcycle under them and not out in front of them, It's easy to see the importance associated with keeping fresh grips on the bars and If you can see the handlebars, or a throttle tube where you should see rubber, you really should keep reading and consider replacing before anyone else or your riding buddies see that.
There are quite a few selections of handlebar grips available
, many of which are very popular brands including Renthal, Pro-Taper, Tag among others, so we're going to stay out of it for which is best, and you're on your own there, but below we'll go into getting the old grips off, things to know about the throttle tube, as well as some tips on reinstalling the new handlebar grips including how to safety wire the grips so they don't twist and move all around the bars.
How to Get The Old Handlebar Grips Off...
Obviously, to replace the grips it's going to be necessary to get the old ones off
so we'll go over this real quick first.
- If the handlebar grips are safety wired, use diagonal cutters"Dike's" and remove the safety wire before continuing.
- Now with the safety wire gone, starting on the left side,
if the grip is still fairly well bonded to the handlebar, you can just cut it
off with a razor blade by carefully slicing straight down the length
then peeling it off.
For those who like a more high tech, or safer approach to grip removal than something like that of using a razor blade to cut a handlebar grip off try this...
- Alternatively, using compressed air with a blow nozzle that
has a long narrow nozzle, place the tip of the air nozzle under the grip
at the most inner part (nearest your thumb) and force compressed air under the grip,
then work the handlebar grip off by hand. (The grip should come off
easily using this method provided that it's not torn anywhere, nor has the
end cut off for use with handguards)
On the Throttle Side...
If you're working on a dirt bike that has an OEM stock plastic throttle tube, the handlebar grip may be vulcanized to the throttle
tube. In this case, removal is very difficult, if not impossible without damaging or destroying the throttle tube. A replacement throttle tube should be the only option here.
If the dirt bike does have the original plastic / nylon throttle tube
still in place, It's recommended that you don't even bother trying to get the
grip off, whether it is vulcanized or not. Just replace the entire throttle tube with an aftermarket throttle tube
that will provide a much better feel, along with better throttle response (mainly when letting off the gas).
In addition to being all around "Trick", aftermarket, aluminum
throttle tubes are much more durable than the stock plastic / nylon
throttle tube and will not easily distort when you crash on the right
side, causing a sticking, or less than optimum feeling throttle.
You do crash don't you?
While The Grips Are Off, Consider This About Throttle Tubes...
- Do you ride Motocross, Arenacross or Supercross?
Get a throttle tube with a bearing in the end and you may be suddenly
amazed at the all around crispiness of how your throttle feels after
installing one of these, especially when you let off the gas.
- Do You Ride Off-Road Types Of Disciplines?
Get an open ended aluminum throttle tube or one without the bearing in the
end and drill the end or cut it off, then you can install a set of
hand guards and still have the benefit of a more durable throttle tube
that will slam shut in a way that is much better than that of the stock plastic /
nylon throttle tube.
Moving To the Other Side of the Bars
Although rather hard to find...Whatever discipline or type of conditions you ride, you may want to consider a "Boyesen Shokout" on the left side of the handlebars.
The "Boyesen Shokout" is a customizable grip assembly
with interchangeable dampers built in, and allows adjustment of the
unit through the implementation of different elastomers, which results in a left side grip that has a slight give to it, and is designed to lessen the impact on your body, as well as reducing arm
pump from hard landings, G-outs and all around rough terrain.
When considering a "Boyesen Shokout" system, be aware that the "Shokout" system comes with a set of
scott grips from Boyesen. If you're wanting a different type or compound of grip, or wish to
replace the Scott grips at a later time, it will then be necessary to purchase 2
sets of handle bar grips at this time due to the fact that when using
the "Shokout" system, 2 throttle side grips are required due to the
added size of the "Shokout" tube.
How to Install New Handlebar Grips on a Dirt Bike
Before getting into actually installing a new set of Handlebar Grips
, It's important to let those of you who already have your new handlebar grips know that before you tear the package open and start jamming the grips onto the ends of the handlebars, there are a few
things you might like to know, as these tips will help keep everything
tight and not rotating around the handlebars, or worse... Coming Off!!
As mentioned above, Now is the time to ensure your throttle works properly, then grab a can of brake clean or similar contact style cleaner and
a rag, then ensure that the handlebar, shokout tube or throttle tube is clean without any glue, dirt or other funk remaining before you continue.
Once the handlebar, "Shokout" tube or
throttle tube is clean and free of any old glue, or other things that
shouldn't be there, (and the throttle works like it supposed to), apply a liberal amount of Grip Glue that is specifically designed for
handlebar grip use and apply it to the top part of the handlebar,
shokout tube, or throttle tube before installing the grip.
The glue goes on the top of the handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube
outer area, NOT inside the grip.
The reason it's better to install the glue on the handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube is so
that when you're installing the grip, the glue will work it's way down the inner length of the handlebar grip where you want it, and Not inside the end of the handlebars, between the throttle tube and handlebars (which can cause a sticking throttle), nor do you want the glue between the shokout tube all of which will happen if the grip glue is placed inside the grip 1st vs on the handlebars, throttle tube or "Shokout" tube
With the grip glue on the handlebar, shokout
tube or throttle tube, take the grip you're going to
install and begin placing it on the end of the handlebar, "Shokout" tube,
or throttle tube and begin to slide the grip on.
- Once the handlebar grip is started onto the handlebar, shokout tube or throttle tube you will need to grab the flange where your thumb rests against and lift on this area
directly above where the glue is applied while sliding the grip on so as
to prevent the glue from being pushed along the length of the
handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube, and not down the inner length
of the handlebar grip where you want it.
If you have the grips on, but
they're loose because the glue is still wet and you're
jonesin' to ride, Check out the following tip on drying the glue and getting the
handlebar grips orientated just the way you want them.
Note: This also works well for both open ended grips
(The kind you cut
the ends off of for handguards included)
and those that are closed at
the end, although it does take a little practice to be able to do this "just
right"
- With the grips installed, grab an air blow nozzle with a
long narrow tip and carefully insert the tip under the flange
where your thumb rests against, now gently force compressed air between the grip
and handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube (depending on what side
you're on) while holding onto the grip with your other hand to prevent
it from shooting off the end of the handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle
tube, but continue reading before you run out and do this.
- While forcing air in between the grip and handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube, relax your hand on the grip while forcing the air in. While doing this, the grip should swell up
slightly in a way similar to a balloon, when it does this use your
other hand and slightly twist the grip back and forth while keeping it
from shooting off the handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube, as doing
this will spread and dry the glue simultaneously.
- After a few seconds of air being forced under the grip, turn the handlebar grip
so that the orientation of the handlebar grip is correct (there may be an arrow on the end that points forward) then quickly pull the air nozzle out once the grip is orientated properly.
- After doing this properly the grip should be exactly where you want it and
seem somewhat bonded to the handlebar, "Shokout" tube, or throttle tube but be sure to see the section below on safety wiring the grips to give the grips the
added benefit of keeping water out and being more resistant slipping.
How To Safety Wire Handlebar Grips...
Once you have the handle bar grips installed and
the glue is "fairly dry" it's a good idea to safety wire them as this
makes them "stay" even stronger, as well as makes the grips more resistant to allowing water
to find it's way underneath causing breaking of the glue bond resulting in slippage.
Wondering Why There's Grooves in the Grips??
Handlebar grips are commonly molded with grooves for safety wire, So that's what the grooves you were wondering why they were there are for.
More Importantly... Even though not all handlebar grips have grooves for safety wire, it does NOT mean that you cannot install safety wire on them and have a tight feeling grip without anything
rubbing your hand, or being uncomfortable.
- To do this properly, you're going to need the proper stainless steel safety wire and locking pliers
as to be able to twist the safety wire tight, as well as being able
to cut the wire and tuck the end under in a way that the end does not
protrude and wear a hole in your glove or hand.
- Although most only place about 3 wraps of safety wire on their grips, there is
plenty of room available for 4 wraps starting closest to the flange, so it IS recommended to use all the space available and apply 4 wraps, as this will ensure a tight handlebar
grip that is less prone to slippage or water entry.
- Begin with cutting a piece of safety wire from the roll about 10-14 inches in
length with the integral cutters that can be found on the safety wire
pliers.
- Next, wrap the wire around the handlebars beginning at the closest
point inward, next to the thumb flange and working outward
placing a safety wire wrap approximately every inch or so until you have
about 4 equally spaced places that the wire is wrapped around the handlebars with the
ends pointing down, all being equal in length and parallel to each other.
(Do not allow the wire to be crossed where you're going to clamp it with the safety wire pliers)
- With the ends of the safety wire positioned parrallel to each other, and of somewhat equal lengths, grab your safety wire pliers with one hand while holding the wire with
the other and lock the pliers onto the safety wire by clamping tightly, then sliding the locking bar on the pliers downward.
- Once the safety wire pliers are locked onto the safety wire, pull the knob
at the end of the pliers outward to make the pliers twist. (Continue
doing this until the safety wire is twisted tightly with the end
pointing downward.)
- Once the grips are safety wired tightly with the ends pointing downward, use the cutters that are built into the pliers and cut the tails off with about 1/16 inch of the twisted wire
remaining.
- Lastly, take the same safety wire pliers, and with a
closed plier use the nose of the pliers and push the nub that is
remaining on the end of the wire sideways, and upwards into the bottom of
the handlebar grip's rubber, concealing the end of the twisted safety wire so it does not snag on anything such as someone's glove or hand.
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